Wednesday, 17 December 2008

Portugese Macau

The Portuguese founded the settlement of Macau in the mid 16th century. I was amazed that this east-west link of 500 years ago developed into such an intact and complete metropolis all that distance away from the motherland. Macau was truly the jewel of the Portuguese empire. In comparison, the Portuguese presence in Malacca is hardly visible, the inference being that it was a relatively insignificant port at that time. The much photographed ruins of St Paul's Cathedral is the iconic monument of Portuguese legacy. However many more architectural gems in far better condition can be found around Senado Square, Rua Central and Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro, the historic centre of Macau. Senado Square has been the urban centre for centuries and remains the shopping hub of downtown Macau. Although the elegant neo-classical buildings now house the likes of MacDonald's and Starbucks, you feel transported to Lisboa forgeting you are actually somewhere in China.
We were extremely lucky to chance upon a group of tourism students who were taking visitors on a walking tour of historic sites as part of their practicum for the tourism course run by the Macau Department of Tourism. An enthusiastic bunch, led by a Japanese teacher who used to be a travel writer, the students ran the entire show well, from commentaries in English and Mandarin, to caring for the road safety of the group, to providing illustrated brochures. The standard of spoken English was good. To my delight, around every corner was a photographic opportunity of heritage buildings. In 2005 Macau was put on the World Heritage list bringing the total in China to 31. The Macanese have the privilege of living in heritage buildings . . . . . . or the more typical apartment blocks along narrow streets.This traditional Chinese residential compound comprising several courtyard houses belonged to a prominent literary figure, and is being conserved for exhibition in the near future.
St Augustine's Church, first established by the Spanish in 1591, is a popular site for the Easter procession. In the past, priests covered the roof with fan palms during the heavy rains causing the locals to name it, Temple of the Long- Whiskered Dragon. The Dom Pedro V Theatre built in 1860 was the first western-styled theatre with a seating capacity of 300. Today it hosts the annual Macau Music Festival held in spring. Bilingual signage is everywhere making it easy for visitors. Now what is wrong with that we Malaysians may ask?St Lawrence's Church built by the Jesuits in the mid 16th century is the oldest church in neo-classical and baroque style. Portuguese families would gather here to pray for the safe return of sailors and hence was called the Hall of Soothing Winds by the local Chinese. Local architects were influenced by the Art Deco style of the 1900's as well. This is now a boys' school near to St Joseph's Church and Seminary.The ambiance of the old city is nostalgically old Europe with a palpable Chinese presence.
While old heritage is treasured, new traditions are imbibed readily.One of the first Portuguese residential areas was located in Lilau Square, where the ground water provided the main source of natural spring water. The old saying goes, " One who drinks the water from Lilau never forgets Macau".The Moorish Barracks built in 1874 accommodated the Indian regiment from Goa appointed to reinforce the police force. It was my father's standing comment to overseas visitors when we showed them Sultan Abdul Samad Building or The Secretariat - "British architects had a whale of a time in the colonies as they could experiment with designs from India to China, this being a fine example of Moorish architecture from India".So too in Macau. This now houses the Macau Maritime Administration.A-Ma Temple, a exemplary example of Chinese culture inspired by Confucianism, Taoism, Buddhism and folk beliefs, existed before the city of Macau came into being. Our walking tour ended here on Rua de S. Tiago da Barra. Our young guides helped us catch a bus and directed us to a local restaurant for Macanese food.The next morning, while the boys were playing their last game, I walked to Guia Fortress, a 45 minute walk from the hotel. The fortress was built in 1622. The lighthouse, built later in 1865, was the first modern lighthouse on the Chinese coast. A commanding view of the city from this vantage point was worth the long uphill walk.Guia Chapel, established by Clarist nuns, still preserves elaborate frescoes depicting western religious themes and Chinese mythical inspiration reflecting Macau's multiracial background. This lofty point is a popular photographic spot for newly weds.The park surrounding the fortress is the perfect peaceful setting for solo or group practice of Tai Chi

Friday, 12 December 2008

Venice in Macau

Leaving Hong Kong for Macau turned out to be quite an adventure. I thought we would load up into a van and head for our Macau hotel. Wrong! A prearranged SUV picked us from the hotel but only to the ferry. From then on, the merry band of six became fully engaged in the dragging 4 golf bags and 7 pieces of luggage to and from ferries and two sets of immigration.After what seemed to be an endless 27-hole walking course of water hazards, ferry ramps and escalators, without golf trolleys or caddies, we finally reached our destination.
Undaunted by the trek, we showered and headed for the much talked about Venetian for a look see. Our taxi rolled up to the entrance, which was a ten-lane drop off, with valets and luggage trolleys waiting in readiness for hotel guests. Where were these guys when we needed them earlier?
Palatial would be the word to describe the The Venetian. The ornate opulent decor mimicked roman splendour from marble floors to frescoed ceilings.
All passages lead to the heart of the complex, the casino, architecturally designed such that it is impossible to miss or avoid.
Friendly signs cajole you on, providing counselling services if it all goes wrong.
In true Monopoly form, YOU CANNOT PASS GO BEFORE YOU ENTER THE CASINO, an area covering at least one and a half football fields. If you do stop off at the casino, be warned, you may never get to the shops, theatre or restaurants beyond. Discovery is a ravenous activity and we were ready for a good meal. We opted for the chic Italian restaurant over the hip Deco Cafe.

In daylight the Venetian would look like this . . .

. . . but in the evening it is transformed to a fairyland.Shops stretch from North to South, East to West along canals ala Venice. With a painted blue sky and fluffy white clouds you can shop in perpetual bliss and may even take a gondola ride to complete the fantasy.

Better still, all the shops were having massive reductions, anything from 30% to 70% for the picking. On hind sight, we should have opted for the quickie meal at Cafe Deco and spend more time in the shops.I had done some research before the trip and found out that ZAIA is a resident show by Cirque du Soleil presented exclusively at The Venetian Macau. Tickets were available for the next evening at 10% discount. Take note there is no discount for Internet purchases. ZAIA is the dream of a young girl who journeys into space on a strange, yet familiar voyage of self-discovery. The team of skillful acrobats and dancers, creative acrobatic choreographers, rigging and equipment designers who work in tandem with lighting and projection designers put together a show of spectacular athleticism and artistic eclecticism.

The minds eye is continuously bombarded with streams of intricate motions, flowing costumes in muted hues blended with 3D projections of meteor storms and swirling galaxies in presentation after presentation of perfection.
The technical prowess is evident in the self-supporting 2,300-kg sphere in center stage disappearing into the stage from time to time and the video sculpture that projects images in a 360-degrees radius using six projectors mounted inside it. This mosaic of images sometimes turns the sphere into a planet, the Earth or the Moon.The next day we heard that the other two golfers explored The Sands Casino.
More shops, restaurants and Las Vegas-like cabaret shows that were free of charge.The biggest surprise is that there is more to Macau than meets the eye. Its not all about casinos and gambling as you will find out in the next episode.